Just what I need, another new project...

Well, actually, it's not really a very new project. I first started officially planning it a little over a year ago (then found out shortly thereafter that my friend Tom had the exact same idea in mind). It all stems from wanting to build a layout to run my models, wanting a nice diorama to photograph my models on, wanting to practice my scenery techniques, and the key to it all: having some space along a nice long wall in the living room of my apartment.

So what exactly is this project? Basically, it's an HO modular layout representing the diamond at Palmer, Massachusetts, where two rail lines cross and at least four different railroads are represented. In my chosen early-'90s era, speficially 1993, those two lines were Conrail's Boston Line and the Central Vermont mainline. Amtrak and the Masachusetts Central also make appearances, with the MCER serving the Boston Line interchange, but nowadays CR and the CV have given way to CSX and the New England Central.

The layout itself is 2'x10' in the form of two 2'x5' modules. Both have simple box frames made from 1x4 pine, but my goal is to build all the scenery from foam and other lightweight materials. This is partly to keep costs down, partly to try out the latest innovative scenery techniques, and also partly so I can lift the foam sections out to make them more portable for photo shoots.

Now, being the engineer and rivet-counter that I am, I knew I had to plan this as realistically as possible. I started by studying satellite photos and old Conrail track charts to make sure I understood the track layout. I drew a 2'x10' grid in Illustrator and scaled the photo to 1:87 HO, then adjusted it here and there until the scene fit within my borders.

Scaled-down satellite photo and selectively adjusted track plan.

I loosely traced over the tracks, playing with the curves until I liked them, then jumped over to SolidWorks so I could draw the plan more accurately. I decided to use a #8 switch on the mainline and #6 switches everywhere else, so I drew them in and made sure that all my curves would line up with no kinks. I used the measuring functions in SolidWorks to help me transfer the track centerlines to a full-scale grid that I hung on the wall, pinning up lengths of flexible 1/16" aluminum bar stock from Lowes to form smooth curves.

This hideous decor was hanging on my wall for several months, but luckily it's gone now.

After putting it off for a while, the project finally got going during a 3-day weekend when I drove up to Home Depot to buy the initial foam slabs. They carry 2'x8' panels of interlocking pink Owens Corning insulation in several thicknesses, so I decided this route would save me some cutting (not to mention be easier to transport). I was a little worried about fitting the panels into my Saab though, so I also bought a small saw in case I had to shorten them so they'd survive the hilly drive back to my apartment. Luckily, with some careful adjustments and a bit of wiggling, I managed to fit both 2"-thick panels intact! Must have looked a little funny to other drivers, though.

They don't call them "Swedish pickup trucks" for nothing!

As it turns out, the interlocking panel feature means you lose a bit of the nominal 2' width at the edges, which means I might have some filling or shimming to do later. It also turns out that the 4'x8' blue Dupont foam sold at Lowes comes pre-scored so you can easily break it into 16" or 24" widths. Had I realized that, I might have paid the extra $10 or so for the single sheet so I'd have the full edges, not to mention a much shorter awkward drive home...emphasis on 'might,' though.

I did go to Lowes the next day anyway to buy lumber for the box frames. Although they sell a grade called 'select pine' that is cleanly cut and has a very nice finish, I decided that for this eventually-hidden benchwork I'd stick with basic 1x4 pine. For the long sides of my modules, I spent some time picking out two of the straightest and cleanest 10' lengths I could find, then grabbed two more so-so pieces to make the short sides and braces. After a few cuts on the panel saw by a friendly Lowes employee, I had four nominal 5' lengths and ten 22-1/2" pieces.

Starting with the corners, I applied wood glue and clamped them together with a speed square on the inside, then drilled and countersunk holes for two wood screws. After I had the basic box formed, I added the three braces running horizontally (so I'll have flat spaces for mounting things like switch machines, if I decide to use them). A little touch-up with a sanding block and I had two 2'x5' frames that are strong, light, and reasonably neat and square.

First wooden frame complete. That's the October 1993 MR with an article on the Boston Line.

To attach the two frames together, I drilled holes for a pair of 3/8"-16 x 2" hex bolts with fender washers and wing nuts. The fender washers distribute the clamping force onto the wood, while the wing nuts make it easy to loosen or tighten these (though a wrench also helps). For now, the modules are sitting on cheap Harbor Freight sawhorses, but eventually I'd like to build legs that raise the layout to a better viewing level. The foam panels are keyed in place with pieces of 3/8" dowel that I drove into holes around the edges of the benchwork. I also decided to make shims from basswood strips as a way of simulating the grade through Palmer, but I can remove these later if I decide I don't like the effect.

The actual subroadbed surface is another sheet of foam, this time 1-1/2" thick, which spans the full width at the eastern end but turns into a pair of embankments west of the crossing. By cutting and fitting some scraps together, I was able to use a single 2'x8' panel, although unfortunately the interlocking edges of this piece were even worse. This did give me an excuse to try some Foam Putty from Woodland Scenics, and I'd say I like it. It's a very lightweight spackle that closely resembles foam when dry...I just wonder if it's actually identical to something cheaper you could get at the hardware store.

1-1/2" foam subroadbed added. The locos/cars are checking clearance past the switches.

Recently, I really got some momentum going when I found someone selling a bunch of new and used track on eBay. I've been wanting to try the tie strips and switch kits from Central Valley, but I also want to use three rail sizes: code 83 for the CR mainline, code 70 for the passing siding and CV trackage, and code 55 for the interchange track. Not only did this seller have four of the five CVT switch kits I needed, he also had a bundle of Micro Engineering code 70 and 55 flextrack. The two auctions also included some miscellaneous pieces, such as used Shinohara code 70 switches and a couple lengths of Atlas code 83 flextrack. Although it's not the easiest to bend, the ME flextrack looks very nice, so it'll save me some time by using it, but I do plan to strip the rails from the Atlas track and use CVT tie strips for the mainline. When the track arrived, I laid out some pieces to mock up the track plan, and I'm pretty happy with how it's shaping up!

Track mocked up as the Lake Shore Limited rolls through. Inspired by this shot.